Two nights in the Champagne region might sound brief. However, if you leave early on Friday morning, you have Friday afternoon, a full Saturday, and Sunday morning to explore. It's enough time for Reims, Mercier's cellars, a day of biking through vineyards, Hautvillers, and two delightful evenings in Épernay without rushing or switching hotels. Here's how we planned it.
More information about the Champagne region can be found here.
Friday: From Reims to Épernay
We left early from the Netherlands, reaching Reims by lunchtime. This was intentional: to visit Reims on the way, rather than dedicating an entire day. Then onto Épernay for check-in and the afternoon at our first champagne cellar.
Lunch at Brasserie Excelsior in Reims
Brasserie Excelsior is conveniently located near Reims station, offering a delightful brasserie experience. The decor is classic: high ceilings, leather benches, chandeliers, and closely set tables. We were fortunate to sit in the lovely garden outside. We arrived around 1 p.m. and easily got a table.
The menu is classic French, focusing on seafood. The platters of fruits de mer stand out as you enter; we enjoyed a delicious avocado and shrimp salad. Prices reflect a quality brasserie in Reims: affordable for the experience. Parking is available in a multistory car park just two minutes away.
If you have some time after lunch, the Reims Cathedral is within walking distance, and its exterior alone is worth seeing. We had a tour at Mercier scheduled for 4:30 p.m., so we moved quickly.
Onward to Épernay
The drive from Reims to Épernay is about 30 kilometers, taking around 25 to 30 minutes. We checked in, left our luggage, and went straight to Mercier.
Tour of Mercier's Cellars
The last tour of the day at Champagne Mercier started at 4:30 p.m., right on the Avenue de Champagne. As one of Épernay's larger champagne houses, Mercier's 18-kilometer-long cellars beneath the city store over 200,000 bottles.
The tour is conducted via an electric train through the cellars. It may sound whimsical but is genuinely enjoyable. You're 30 meters underground, exploring the rich history and grandeur of this champagne house. The tour lasts about 45 minutes and concludes with a tasting.
The tour offers insights into the history of large-scale champagne production and marketing, making it fascinating for any enthusiast.
First Night in Épernay
We stayed at La Cave de l'Avenue de Champagne, perfectly positioned at the start of Avenue de Champagne. The view from the hotel takes in Moët & Chandon, with everything nearby, eliminating the need for a car at night.
That evening, we dined at Sacré Bistro: a French bistro where we relished a sumptuous Côte de Boeuf. Reservations are recommended, and try to sit downstairs for a warm ambiance.
Check prices for your dates at La Cave de l'Avenue de Champagne →
Saturday: Biking, Champagne, and Hautvillers
The weather was on our side, and we planned to make the most of it, which we certainly did.
Breakfast in Épernay
We enjoyed breakfast at Miblo Coffee, which was so delightful that we returned the next day. Great coffee and scrambled eggs you'd hardly expect in a small French town. This is your go-to breakfast spot for the weekend.
Biking Through the Vineyards
The bike tour departed in the morning from Épernay (also an option if you start from Reims) and winds through the hills and vineyards north of the city. Riding e-bikes is highly recommended in this terrain: without electric assistance, the experience would be quite different due to the hills.
What sets biking apart from driving is the pace at which you travel, allowing you to truly appreciate the scale of the vineyards. In a car, you merely see rows of grapes; on a bike, you feel the contours of the hills and understand the labor behind this landscape.
Picnic Amongst the Vineyards
Midway through the route, we paused for a picnic. You call a number at a certain point, and a picnic basket filled with delicious treats is prepared for you.
Picnicking right amidst the vineyards might seem like a detail, yet it’s precisely these details that differentiate a biking day from city sightseeing.
Tasting at Champagne Charles Pougeoise
During the tour, we visited Champagne Charles Pougeoise, a small family-run champagne house. The contrast with Mercier from the day before was stark: no train, no vast cellars, just a family producer explaining their vineyard and methods.
This doesn't automatically mean smaller is better. Mercier illustrates the industrial strength of the Champagne region, while Pougeoise offers a personal touch. Both are worthwhile, and the difference is quite enjoyable.
See here for more tours and tastings nearby.
Heading to Hautvillers
After the bike tour, we drove to Hautvillers, a village on a hill near Épernay. Hautvillers is inextricably linked to Dom Pérignon, the Benedictine monk who worked on refining the Champagne method in the local abbey in the 17th century. Whether or not he was the true inventor is debatable, but the village has wholeheartedly embraced this legacy.
You can see this in the intricately wrought iron signs along the main street, each depicting an artisan craft or Champagne tradition. The abbey itself has limited access, but the village is worth a stroll. It's not large or crowded, and provides views of the vineyards from the village edge.
Another tasting in Hautvillers is an option, perhaps at Maison Bosser or Maison Haton. Wandering around, you'll uncover several possibilities. I discovered a delightful boutique hotel while there. For those staying in Hautvillers, La Chevalee offers stunning views and a pool.
Drink on the Avenue de Champagne
Back in Épernay, the Avenue de Champagne changes character in the late afternoon: quieter, bathed in golden light, and more inviting for appreciating why it's the region's most iconic boulevard. The garden at Perrier Jouet is the prettiest, located at the start of Avenue de Champagne.
Second Evening: Dinner in Épernay
The benefit of two evenings in the same city: you can try two very distinct restaurants without any effort. We went to Chez Max, an old family bistro with a focus on cuisine. Definitely worth a visit.
Sunday: Breakfast and Heading Back to the Netherlands
No artificial activities to fill Sunday. We had breakfast, took our time, and then headed back to the Netherlands.
It's worth noting: you don't need to tick off three more champagne houses on Sunday to feel the weekend was successful. Two nights in Épernay, arriving on Friday, can be surprisingly fulfilling.
Is a Weekend in the Champagne Region Enough?
For this specific route, yes. By leaving early Friday, we already had half a day. Saturday was completely dedicated to the bike tour, Hautvillers, and an evening in Épernay. Sunday was a relaxed conclusion.
Two nights aren't enough to cover the entire Champagne region; it's too vast. But for Reims as a stopover, Épernay as a base, and the surrounding vineyards, it worked perfectly.
Why Stay in Épernay?
For this itinerary, Épernay was an ideal base. The champagne houses on Avenue de Champagne are a must; we could walk to dinner in the evenings, and Hautvillers and the vineyards are practically around the corner. Reims is larger, making it less cozy.
Would I Do It Again?
What I appreciated about this plan was that it wasn't solely about champagne tasting. One day we explored Mercier's vast underground cellars; the next, we biked through vineyards and tasted at a smaller champagne house. Add to that Reims, Hautvillers, and two evenings in Épernay, and a weekend in the Champagne region turned out surprisingly well.
