Puglia is the Southern Italy that feels more raw than Tuscany or Umbria, and that's exactly why I keep returning. White towns like Ostuni, Otranto, and Monopoli, beach bars like Lido Bizarro, and the small village of Savelletri for a delightful evening out. If you have the time, combine this with a visit to Matera, just across the border in Basilicata. But the heart of a journey through Puglia is always the masseria for me. It is the traditional agriturismo of the south, often with its own land that is still cultivated, suitable for all budgets and everyone. Here are six masserias in Puglia that I personally visited, located around Ostuni, Monopoli, and Otranto.
Masseria Montenapoleone: masseria in Puglia near Ostuni
Masseria Montenapoleone is expansive but feels immediately personal and intimate upon arrival. As you drive through the gate, you can smell the wild rosemary and oleander, mingled with the sea breeze. The long driveway to the main building, with its irregular contours reflecting the passage of time, instantly gives you the feeling of having arrived at a special place. On special evenings, you dine among the vineyards, creating those defining moments that make a stay here memorable. There’s a fine restaurant, even if you're not staying overnight, and the pool is cooled at night in summer, a necessary luxury in the Pugliese heat. This masseria is the most beautiful on the list.
Masseria Salamina: four hundred years of history on four hundred hectares
Masseria Salamina bears four hundred years of history over four hundred hectares of land, and you can feel it. While Montenapoleone consists of multiple buildings, Salamina is more compact, with twenty rooms around a stunning old main building. The chic restaurant on the castle patio is enchanting, a place where many choose to get married, and indeed often do. Oil and wine tastings are part of the program, as are the vegetable gardens still being cultivated. For those who want to feel history instead of just reading about it.
Masseria Muntibianchi: modern near Otranto
Masseria Muntibianchi is located much further south than the other five, near Otranto, and it feels different too. The building is more modern, less old than the rest of this list, with a spa, indoor and outdoor pools, and a large hall with a fireplace. The breakfast is delightful, and the restaurant is chic. I had fish in a salt crust here, a dish I still talk about whenever I mention Puglia. Tastings and weddings are also part of the offerings. For those who prefer to stay near Otranto instead of around Ostuni.
Masseria Torre Coccaro: the most expensive, with two private beach clubs
Masseria Torre Coccaro resembles Montenapoleone in atmosphere, enchanting and lush, with a fine restaurant and massages for those wishing to relax. What stands out here are the two private beach clubs a five-minute drive away, making a difference for those wanting to combine the beach with a masseria without the need to look for another address constantly. This is the priciest option on this list, with prices starting at three hundred euros per night, but those two beach clubs alone justify the cost.
Masseria Valente: the most affordable, conveniently located between the beach and Ostuni
Masseria Valente is smaller and less chic than Salamina and Torre Coccaro, yet still oozes charm. The location is excellent, centrally positioned between the beach and Ostuni, making it a logical base. The people are friendly, the restaurant is tasty, and the exterior lighting gives the grounds an unexpected ambiance in the evenings for this price level. Starting at one hundred fifty euros per night, this is the most affordable option on this list and a good choice for those seeking atmosphere on a budget.
Masseria Grieco: a family story twenty years in the making
Masseria Grieco holds the most personal story on this list. The current owner's father and uncle bought the farm nearly twenty years ago and spent fifteen years renovating it. In 2018, the first ten rooms were opened. You can still feel that story in the atmosphere. The grounds are beautifully landscaped, the rooms are lovely, and by the pool, there’s a small bar with a surprisingly delicious menu. For those who appreciate a place with a soul, and an owner who loves to share the story personally.
Six masserias in Puglia, for every budget
Masseria Montenapoleone for a fairytale ambiance near Ostuni. Masseria Salamina for four hundred years of history and a chic restaurant. Masseria Muntibianchi for those preferring a stay near Otranto with a more modern building and spa. Torre Coccaro for those combining beach and masseria through two private beach clubs. Masseria Valente for the best value, conveniently located between the beach and Ostuni. Masseria Grieco for those seeking a family story and soul. Combine a visit with the white towns Ostuni, Otranto, and Monopoli, an evening in Savelletri, and if you have time, an excursion to Matera. Prices are indicative and may vary.
Frequently Asked Questions about Masserias in Puglia
What exactly is a masseria?
A masseria is the traditional agriturismo of Southern Italy, often an old farmhouse with its own land that is still harvested. Nowadays, many masserias have been converted into hotels, ranging from simple to very luxurious.
Which masseria in Puglia is the most affordable?
Masseria Valente is the most affordable on this list with prices starting at one hundred fifty euros per night, while Torre Coccaro is the most expensive, starting at three hundred euros per night.